After a great campfire evening and making dinner in our “poitje pot,” we readied ourselves for bed. My brother-in-law decided to hike the short trail to the waterhole at Halali camp in Etosha before retiring. Daughter Zara was in her bag in the roof tent and I was climbing the ladder to join her and we got a text from Cecil saying “lions!” John had already hussled up the trail and Z and I decided to go…with our headlamps bobbing little specks of light all around as we ran and walked. No luck…we missed them. Cecil had made a good sighting of two lions and John saw their rumps and tails disappear into the darkness. Back in our tents…we dozed off to the sounds of the lions growling and rumbling at the edge of the fenced camp. It’s a sound that I could feel in my gut…as well as hear.
Other nighttime excitement included keeping watch for fierce honey badgers that had figured out how tasty human food was. They are nothing to mess with. We would shine our flashlights and catch the red glow of their eyes in the bush at the edge of our campsite. I was awakened in the night to hear them turning over the large garbage cans and tearing up anything food-related. They hissed and growled and shredded.
The next day was our last day in Etosha and we hiked up to the Moringa waterhole in Halali one more time. We decided to spend 3o minutes or so to watch and observe whichever animals were there. We sat under the shaded viewing area; moved around quietly, making photographs and I sketched. We soaked up the calm, beautiful activity of kudu, and black-faced impala and zebra drinking from the waterhole…and funny groups of guinea fowl scurrying around.
We all decided it was time to hit the road…we had some distance to cover and places to stop before we would reach our night’s destination.
All of a sudden, a little dust began to rise up from the bush across the waterhole and almost out of nowhere came a few elephants. Then more and more…in a perfect line. They emerged, one by one in a perfect procession that became 47-50 elephants! They circled around the entire waterhole, clearing out any other animals as they completed their march.
Needless to say, we changed our plans and stayed for another hour and a half…watching, listening, absorbing in awe! We saw huge elders drink and spray and babies roll around and play in the water in pure joy. We saw teenage elephants jousting and pushing each other and we saw gentle nudging and playing between all ages of the group.They trumpeted, snorted, blew air and water from their trunks…an amazing assortment of sounds.
It was an unbelievable life moment for all of us…we would throw glances and smiles back and forth without speaking but we were all feeling the power of being in the presence of such magnificent creatures. Elephants became synonymous with Halali camp in Etosha.
Our time was too short in Etosha. I must come back to this place. This “great white place,”… shimmering mirages and white hot gravel and the homes of such amazing animals.